Les Houches is the quiet end of the Chamonix valley, and it's a proper ski area in its own right rather than an overflow car park for Chamonix. It's south-facing and tree-lined, which matters more than people expect: when the high lifts further up the valley are shut in wind or socked in cloud, Les Houches is often still perfectly skiable.
The lifts, on foot from the door
You don't need to drive or take a bus to ski. There are two lifts within a short walk of the apartment, in opposite directions:
- Bellevue télécabine — a 4-minute walk, 350 m.
- Prarion gondola — a 7-minute walk, 550 m, in the other direction.
Between them you have the entire Les Houches ski domain at your doorstep: 55 km of pistes, the legendary Kandahar / Verte des Houches World Cup downhill, and gentler, family-friendly slopes around the Prarion summit.
Lifts open at 8:45 a.m. and close at 4:30 p.m. (4:00 p.m. early and late season).
Which ski pass to buy
This is the decision worth getting right, because the two options are priced very differently and suit different trips:
- Les Houches only — around €48–55 for a full day. Fine if you're here for a couple of days, skiing with children, or happy to stay on one mountain.
- Mont Blanc Unlimited — around €72–80 a day, covering the whole valley plus the Aiguille du Midi and Courmayeur over in Italy. Much better value for three days or more, and the one to buy if you want to ski around.
Buy online at montblancnaturalresort.com to skip the queue, or at the Bellevue ticket office.
Hiring skis
Two good options, both within walking distance:
- Ravanel & Co, 22 Place de la Fruitière — family-run, friendly fitting, and ski-in/ski-out from the shop's own locker.
- Skimium / Sanglard Sports, near the Bellevue base — slightly cheaper, and good for performance gear.
Two tips worth knowing: book online for around 10% off, and tell them you're staying nearby — many will store your skis overnight for free. You also have your own private ski locker in the residence, so you don't have to carry kit up to the apartment.
Ski school
Both of the valley's main schools operate in Les Houches: ESF Les Houches and Evolution 2. Book well ahead for school holidays — group lessons at Christmas and February half-term fill early.
When the weather is poor at Les Houches
This is the single most useful thing to know about skiing here. The valley is a microclimate playground, and a bad morning in Les Houches doesn't mean a bad day's skiing — it usually just means driving fifteen minutes. When it's foggy or raining at the bottom:
- Le Tour / Balme, at the top of the valley, is often above the cloud.
- Grands Montets has the highest skiing and the best snow late in the season.
- Aiguille du Midi → Vallée Blanche for off-piste, with a guide — book through the Compagnie des Guides.
Your Mont Blanc Unlimited pass covers all of these, which is part of why it's worth the extra on a longer stay.
Beginners and young children
The slopes around the Prarion summit are the gentler, more family-friendly side of the domain. If you're teaching very young children and want somewhere smaller and quieter still, Plaine Joux above Passy (around 25–30 minutes' drive) is a small, family-oriented ski area that's particularly good for beginners.
Staying at Apartment Leo
350 m from the lifts, with a private ski locker in the residence and a shared pool, sauna and spa for the end of the day. Sleeps four, two bedrooms, two balconies facing Mont Blanc.
More from the valley: where to eat in Les Houches and Chamonix · a local's guide to Les Houches
Pass prices and lift times are approximate and change each season — check montblancnaturalresort.com for current details before you travel.